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Weekend on the rock!

I just came back home from a nice climbing weekend on rock, so I decided to post an update to share what happened in the last 3 days of perfect weather.

We spent the first day in a crag near Arco, where I managed to do the last 8c I missed there: a 20 meters route called “5 uve”. It’s not a 5 stars route like the near “Mr. Teroldego”, but in any case it’s worth to climb it.

On Saturday, after an early waking up, I drove with Marco to Monte Cimo to try “Vola via”: a multipitch route bolted by the team Tondini-Sartori. But after the hike, while we were drinking some tee and waiting that the sun came on the wall, we changed our mind and we decided to give a try to “Via di testa”(7c, 8b, 8b+, 8a, 7b, 8a): the masterpiece on this wall, that I tried last weekend with Gabri Moroni. The first 7c pitch went easy, but on the 8b I felt on the final boulder and needed quite a lot to find the good beta to reach the belay. As the sun left the wall and it became cold, I decided just to figure out the 8b+ and after we rapelled down.

Even if is going to be colder now, I’m sure that I will go back soon on this jewel, as the idea of this route is always turning in my mind at the moment! Multipitch climbing isn’t my strongest point and I’m really syked to improve on it!

Today we weren’t motivated to drive a lot, so we went in Saustall: a very crimpy crag only 30 minutes away from Bolzano. The most part of the routes are chipped, but there is still a 100% natural project that captured my attention last year. It’s a 15m long, 30° steep wall bolted back in the 90’s by the visionary Helli Haller, that is still waiting to be climbed. Today I tried to figure out again the mooves and to find a good solution on the first hard boulder problem, but everything is still looking HARD but possible…I will come back for sure!!!


After the south african trip, I drove back to South Tyrol to set the first European Youth Cup in Merano. It was an hard work, but it was worth it and I think, that everybody was satisfied.

After setting some routes in Termeno, I spent the following 2 weeks between France and Austria, searching a new house and mooving all our stuffs there.

Around the middle of october, I had a 4 days trip to Kalymnos to make some photoshootings….and I didn’t expect me such a nice place! The high quality of the rock and the neverending potential rate the island as one of the best place for climbing I’ve seen so far. I’m really looking forward to the next season to go there and bolt some new stuffs!

When I came back, I immidiatly started to set the IMS boulder cup in Brixen, a master with 5 of the strongest climbers of the world right now…and it was really stresfull because we had just one day to set all the problems. We were a little bit too intimidated about the names on the starting list and at the end the problems were too hard. I’m really upset with the result of the competition: we all put all our energies and did our best to make everything perfect…and at the end it wasn’t. Shits can happen…but the next time it will be better!

As I spend a lot of energies and time in route setting, I decided to create a new page in the blog, where I’ll add all my “work” activities. If someone is intrested, has just to contact me: I’m always motivated to set whatever and wherever!

That’s what has happened since the last post: I will try to post more updates during the winter season! If you want to now more…just follow my twitter page!/JacopoLarcher