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Injury and the Saustall project

After one busy week of route setting, I found some free time to go back in Saustall to complete the project I was trying there. This route was always turning in my mind: her story  and the beauty of the moves pushed me to invest a lot of time on it. I felt closer every day and I really wanted to climb it.

I went there on Monday, but it was really hot and with no wind; I warmed up  just on one 7a and I tried directly the project  in the sun to take some pictures. I slipped off a couple of times on the dyno but everything seemed ok; I waited the shadows and I made another (good) try, but I couldn’t complete it.

The day after I woke up with a bad surprise: my finger was swollen and it hurts a lot! I tried to climb a little bit, but I couldn’t; as I was really afraid to get injuried like last year, I decided to rest and to see a physio.

Luckily it seems to be just a small tendon tear, so I just have to climb on easy stuffs for 2 weeks and it should recover: I really hope so!

Unluckily the hotter season arrived, which means game over for the project until fall.

Now it’s time to recover well and to get focused on something new! … and the project will go down in less then 6 months :)

Thanks a lot to Juri for the pictures!           


All pictures Copyright © Juri Chiaramonte

Boulder fino alla fine del mondo

Below a short footage about the last event in which Gabri, Silvio and I took part.


It has been a long time since the last update and a lot of things have happened.
The last month was quite busy: I had to work a lot setting in the climbing gym, shaping new holds and attending some events, so I couldn’t travel.
I took part in two boulder events at the King Rock in Verona, which were quite funny and I was happy to see again some old friends.
I spent my free time trying the Saustall project, which is always turning in my mind and is asking me a big mental effort: I really hope to send it before the season will end!
Otherwise I climbed a few times around Arco and one day in Cornalba, a nice old school crag near Bergamo, which should deserve more attention.
Now I’m going to set two more weeks, before to leave for 10 days bolting in Kalymnos.

Searching new crags in Kalymnos

Hi everybody! I’m sorry for the lack of news in the past months, but I was quite busy and I didn’t find the time to update.

I spent the first two weeks of February improving my ice climbing skills: after many years I finally managed to realize a dream of youth, standing under a ice fall with two axes! I had a lot of fun and it was nice to slowly get a good feeling wit the ice… I’m really looking forward to the next season!

After few days in Aix, I flew to Kalymnos for a 10 days exploration trip on the island. It was quite strange to travel without meeting any climbers, but when I arrived I understood the reason as the weather was humid, cold and windy…

The trip started with a bad surprise and the very first day I got a bad stomach flu, which forced me to stay in the bed. After this bad start, I spent the following days climbing a little bit on the (wet) classics, exploring the island looking for new crags, and training in the local gym. Unluckily after few days the bad weather arrived, everybody got sick and it was impossible to climb outside, so we decided to change our tickets to flight home earlier.

Despite the short time, I had the opportunity to explore quite a lot and I found some great stuffs to bolt during the next trip: the potential on the island is just impressive!

I really want to thank all the kind people of the island, who helped me and who made my trip great: I can’t wait to come back.

Now I’m back in Bolzano, shaping a lot of new holds, setting in the gym and trying some hard stuffs around…..more to come soon!