Skip to content

Archive for

Dolomites action

Last week I finally managed to find 5 free days to climb a little bit in the Dolomites and in Arco. As the time wasn’t a lot I decided to take advantage of it and to climb all the days:)

Luckily Georg was also free and motivated, so we decided to team up for the next days.

Our first plan was to try the Larcher-Vigiani on the south face of the Marmolada, but the weather forecast wasn’t that great, so we decided to go for something shorter and easier… I always heard a lot of good things about “Giallo Dreams”, a route up to 8a bolted by Rolando Larcher on the Mezzaluna Pillar in Vallacia, so we went to climb this one. The rock is very nice and it is worth to try it … I was just a little bit “surprised” when I found a chipped hold on the 4th pitch… In any case we had a nice day and after some troubles to get down, we arrived very late and very tired at the car.

The next day, we drove to Marmolada with the idea to try the Larcher-Vigiani, but on the road we changed our mind as we both were quite  interested in Bruderliebe and we wanted to have a look on it. So we hiked up and after one night outside, we started to find the route, but without any informations about it. It was quite funny how our “climbing day” finished so fast, but even if the first pitches were supposed to be really easy, we couldn’t find the belay of the third pitch and we had to rappel down…:( We hiked down very upset, but I’m sure I will come  back again to retry it: the line looks so nice!

After a lot of phone calls, I found nobody motivated for some alpine stuffs for the next day, so I drove to Arco to join some friends and to try a route I missed. I felt really tired from the last days, but I had anyway some good goes and a nice day with old friends.

The day after Georg was back in the game and he was really kind to come with me on Italia ’61 on the Piz Ciavazes: an old aid route, which was free climbed for the first time by Bubu Bole in the 2004, with difficulties up to 8a. I don’t know why, by it has always been in my mind since I started climbing and I’ve always looked at it in awe…

So I was pretty happy to finally climb that route, which is actually not scary at all and it is very funny to climb (especially the big roof). I’m just a little upset, because I on sighted all the pitches except the 3rd, as when I arrived under the belay the rope and the bag of another climber were covering the last holds :(

Now is time to drive to France…

Have fun on the rock!

You can find a short article about “via Italia” on the following link:–61–220m–8a-


The last things I thought last years while leaving Rocklands was: I want to come back as soon as possible! … so, the decision was already token and it was just a matter of time and wisdom to wait to the next summer.

After some busy weeks of route setting, I just had the time to pack my stuffs and to jump in  to the airplane … and one month of bouldering in the paradise was started! :)

When we arrived in Capetown we met Haroun and Aurelien, which had to follow Melissa during the trip to edit a documentary about her. After some (rainy) days of tourism in Cape Town, we finally headed to Rocklands! Unluckily the rain didn’t stop, so we spent the first days chilling in the house and getting super motivated for our first climbing sessions.

This year we stayed in a cottage in the Pakkhuis land, so we spent the first days of climbing discovering all the sectors near the campground, doing some classics to get the the feeling with the rock and the style again. Hanging around the campground, we had the “chance” to meet a lot of new people and friends, with whom we shared the most of our trip.

The time flew too fast as always and everyday was just about big breakfasts, coffee sessions, climbing, walking, sore skin, barbecues, beer and a lot of laughing! It’s “strange” to affirm that, but finally he best things about Rocklands isn’t just the perfect rock, but mainly the awesome climbing community and the good moments you can shared  there with all the climbers.

On the climbing side, we tried to go in all the sectors we hadn’t seen last year, climbing some really good lines; but we also walked a lot to explore to find new stuffs.

Unluckily the film required a lot of time and it also rained quite a lot, so I hadn’t the time to try some projects I really would like to climb, but it doesn’t really matter as we shared such good times with new friends and we managed to do a lot of good lines.

I really would like to thank all the people we met there for the good time we had: Scott, Enzo, Steffen, Ricky, Sakari, Becky (and her breakfasts ;) ), Cody, Michele, Clement, Alex, Thys, Mark, Haroun, Aurelien, Jesse, Sarah and all the others … hope to see you guys again!

As last year, the last thing I thought stepping in the airplane was: see you soon Rocklands! :)

Thanks to Scott Noy and Frank Enz for the pictures:

Lack of news…

Hello to everybody!

It has been a long time since my last post. I’m really sorry for the lack of news, but it has been a very busy period for me and I also had some troubles with my laptop, making the updating more complicated…

After my finger injury, due to some “communication problems” with the italian federation, I couldn’t compete in the world cup circuit anymore… so I decided/had to focus on something else.

It’s strange  to affirme that, but I hadn’t a lot of time to climb in the last months: my work as route setter and the organization of the “The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival” took me a lot of time and energies!

Basically, except our 4 weeks- trip to the Rocklands (post and pictures are coming soon!),  I spent the last 3/4 months screwing holds for competitions or in gyms, bolting and making everything safe for the TNF Festival in Kalymnos and driving around for other short obligations. I can’t really complain about all that, because I like to have always something new to do and to be every week in a different place, but it has been a hard period and I feel that now I need to take some time just for my self, my projects and to share good moments with my girlfriend and my friends.

By the way: check out this video to have a quick view on the new sector we bolted for the Festival… it was an hard job, but it was worth to do it:)


Now I’m leaving for France to help Melissa moving out of her house and to watch the World Championship, then we will flight to Kalymnos to enjoy the TNF Climbing Festival!

Have fun on the rocks!