Last week I finally managed to find 5 free days to climb a little bit in the Dolomites and in Arco. As the time wasn’t a lot I decided to take advantage of it and to climb all the days:)
Luckily Georg was also free and motivated, so we decided to team up for the next days.
Our first plan was to try the Larcher-Vigiani on the south face of the Marmolada, but the weather forecast wasn’t that great, so we decided to go for something shorter and easier… I always heard a lot of good things about “Giallo Dreams”, a route up to 8a bolted by Rolando Larcher on the Mezzaluna Pillar in Vallacia, so we went to climb this one. The rock is very nice and it is worth to try it … I was just a little bit “surprised” when I found a chipped hold on the 4th pitch… In any case we had a nice day and after some troubles to get down, we arrived very late and very tired at the car.
The next day, we drove to Marmolada with the idea to try the Larcher-Vigiani, but on the road we changed our mind as we both were quite interested in Bruderliebe and we wanted to have a look on it. So we hiked up and after one night outside, we started to find the route, but without any informations about it. It was quite funny how our “climbing day” finished so fast, but even if the first pitches were supposed to be really easy, we couldn’t find the belay of the third pitch and we had to rappel down…:( We hiked down very upset, but I’m sure I will come back again to retry it: the line looks so nice!
After a lot of phone calls, I found nobody motivated for some alpine stuffs for the next day, so I drove to Arco to join some friends and to try a route I missed. I felt really tired from the last days, but I had anyway some good goes and a nice day with old friends.
The day after Georg was back in the game and he was really kind to come with me on Italia ’61 on the Piz Ciavazes: an old aid route, which was free climbed for the first time by Bubu Bole in the 2004, with difficulties up to 8a. I don’t know why, by it has always been in my mind since I started climbing and I’ve always looked at it in awe…
So I was pretty happy to finally climb that route, which is actually not scary at all and it is very funny to climb (especially the big roof). I’m just a little upset, because I on sighted all the pitches except the 3rd, as when I arrived under the belay the rope and the bag of another climber were covering the last holds :(
Now is time to drive to France…
Have fun on the rock!
You can find a short article about “via Italia” on the following link: http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/multi-pitch/jacopo-larcher-sale-italia–61–220m–8a-