We finally made it to the Red!
The pictures of this place, with his colors and rock features, have always been in my mind and now it’s a great feeling to be here…in the reality it’s even better!
After the long drive from Chicago, we spent the first two days trying to get used to the style and doing some classics; the climb here is completely different, but it’s really funny and very very pumpy!
The weather has been super hot, so we haven’t tried a lot of hard things yet, trying to save some skin and energies for the next week, as it is supposed to get colder soon.
I just tried once Pure Immagination, falling on my first attempt at the end of the lower crux and then climbing to the anchor; I’m quite sure it won’t take me too many tries, so I’ll wait the cooler temps before to give another go.
In any case we managed to climb some really nice routes: Melissa red pointed Tranworld Depravity 8b+, which I managed to flash, and I on sighted the long Omaha Beach, also 8b+, and some more routes up to 8b. Now it is going to rain for two days… our skin will recovered and we will be ready to going for the projects: motivation is high!
We are camping around, so we haven’t always internet, but I’ll try to post some updates every week.
You can find some more news and nice pictures on Melissa’s blog (http://melissaleneve.blogspot.com/2012/10/our-first-step-in-red-river-gorges.html).
The Kalymnos Climbing Festival has been really special and a great event. I’m still searching the words to resume and describe it, but I’ll get back on it soon.
In the meanwhile you can enjoy the last video about it! The STORY.teller crew did an excellent work!
Last Saturday, despite the bad weather, I had quite a good birthday day.
The morning started with a special gift: a nice helicopter flight above dolomites, which has always been a little dream for me. I really have to thank Simone, who gave me the opportunity to make this experience!
As it was raining quite a lot, we decided to spent the afternoon eating and chilling,; it was funny because I suddenly jumped out of my chair saying to the others and to myself: ok, let’s go climbing! I call some friends, that were climbing in Arco to know if I could join them quickly, and I jumped in the car. I didn’t have a lot of time and I just wanted to do the route I tried the day before, falling at the very last move; so after a 6c, I started direct in “Scoglio di Capri” and after some minutes I grabbed the last hold. I was really happy to climb this beautiful 8c in just
a bunch of tries, which is for sure one of the best of the crag and of the all region! Thank you Vale for bolting this line and all the others!
After that I immediately drove back home to not be late for the cake :)
A special thanks goes to all the friends, who tried to make me laughing during the last hard days… I’ve really appreciated that…
I’m really happy to start a new partnership and to join the Smith Optics team!
They produce tons of cool and different sunglasses, googles, helmets, and many other nice stuffs.
Check out the website and find out the one you like the most!