Skip to content

Archive for

Back in the US

After a couple of months, we are back in the US!

This time the destination of the trip was one of the more famous bouldering area of the world: Hueco Tanks. I’ve always heard a lot of positive things about this area, so I was really curious to see all that by myself.

After some flight troubles, all the team (composed by Anna, Kilian, Hannes, Elias, Melissa and myself) arrived in El Paso, ready to enjoy some good climbs for the following 2 weeks!

After the last period of route setting and gym climbing, I was really happy to grab some rock again, and doing it with friends is for sure the best way. We don’t have that much time, and all the park’s regulations make the climbing here quite tricky, so we are just trying to climb as much as possible, just looking for the best problems, without caring about the grades or anything else. There is so much to do here, that it would be a shame to spend 3 days sitting in front of something really hard, without enjoying all the nice problems of the park.

There isn’t that much to do here beside bouldering, so the daily routine is characterized by the sequence “burritos-climbing-burritos-climbing-burritos”… while the rest days are the same…but without “climbing” ;)

Anyways, we were able to climb a lot of classics up to V12, the skin is getting worse as always and we are now starting the second half of the trip.

Honestly, I’ve to say that it is not on of my favorite spots so far: the lines and the rock aren’t as good as in other areas (like in Rocklands, Font or Bishop) and there are too many “stupid”regulations, which make the climbing days less free and funny. The good point is that in a quite small area, there is a never ending number of problems… making Hueco more looking like as big climbing gym!

See you in one week

Advertisements

What’s going on…

It has been a while since the last post, but nothing especial happened on the climbing side. After we left Spain at the very beginning of January, we drove to Innsbruck to move home. It has been a busy period, trying to collect all our stuffs, which were spread all over in different places (and countries ;) ), but we now managed to do everything and I can finally say that I’ve a place where I feel at home. That means a lot to me, as I spent the last year traveling around all the time, which is of course really nice, but sometimes  it’s also very tiring and you can really feel that you need to spend some time  in a place you call “home”.

When I left Spain, my original idea was to spend the whole month practicing ice climbing, but when I arrived in Bolzano it was 18° C, which made me quickly change my mind…after some thoughts and as  I’ve never tried to train again after all my injuries, I took the “hard” decision to dedicate the  3 following weeks only to climb in the gym to gain some strength and to be better prepared to achieve my goals of the year. It was very hard for my body to get back on training, but unexpectedly it wasn’t for my mind.

I love to share those moments with Mél: it is so much easier to go trough training together, to motivate each others when there is an hard moment and to keep the focus on our goals, even if there are completely different. Everything seems easier when you are two: it’s a big “chanche”! :)

After this period I had to dedicate 10 days only to route setting: I made a non-stop tour of all the gyms where I had to set, which completely destroyed my mind and my body… I really enjoyed to grab the drill again, but it was very tiring and I feel that now I have to chill a little bit at home, climbing and skiing, before to leave for Hueco in a bunch of days :)

By the way, I had a nice meeting with the TNF team to start planing the next edition of the TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival, which will take place from the 10th the 13th of October: mark this date on your schedule….it’s going to be even better than the last edition!