The last two months haven’t been easy.
After a “waiting” summer, I had two really busy months, full of setting and events; I wanted to get as much free time as possible during the summer, so I concentrated all the work I had to do in September/October/November. Actually it wasn’t a smart decision, as the weather began to be really good with the beginning of the fall…and I was stuck setting in gyms… anyways: that’s the risk of taking decisions!
I love my job, so, even if it was frustrating to “waste” those perfect days, I tried to do my best and keep the motivation for the next period off. I was pretty satisfied with the result of the comps I set, and I managed to climb a little bit outside in the short periods when I was at home. The weather was awesome, the crispy and dry fall days were perfect to climb in Loruens, a really nice crag, 5 minutes away from where we live; there are so many hard routes and nice projects there, that I was pretty happy and motivated to go always there as soon as I had some days off. After having done a quick work of the classic of the sector, I started to try the extension of it, which definitely is the most obvious line of the wall. This old project climbs an overhanging corner and it is characterized by some super weird moves, which are powerful and technical at the same time. I struggled a little bit to figure out the beta, but then I started quickly to get always closer and closer to the send.
When I set so much in a short period, I always get really tired. The fact to travel a lot, work a lot of hours, sleep less, eat bad, climb without having warmed up, and, more in general, to have an unbalanced life…always makes my body more sensitive to injuries. I know that, and this scares me… but that’s also the deal to make a living out of climbing ;-)
I tried to pay attention, but as every time, I stated to feel that something was wrong with my fingers.
At the begging I taught that my right middle finger was just a little bit sore, and that I just had to take care about it…but it got everyday worse. That’s how the “nightmare” of the last two months has started! having learned for my past injuries, I immediately started to slow down and I took some days off from climbing, doing some other exercises. It seemed like the rest wasn’t helping, so I decided to start climbing again, to get some more blood going trough. I had the feeling that it worked out, so I kept on climbing on not so hard stuffs. It seemed to work out, or at least not to make things worse…until one day it started to hurt a lot again. I tried to find the support and feedbacks from some doctors, and I started to take a period off from climbing, doing again just other exercises. I felt that my body was tired, and I had the proof when I injured also my right shoulder, while doing some rehab workouts. Luckily it wasn’t something too serious, but it was definitely annoying and demoralizing. After the period of work, I finally got all the free time I wanted…but I was stuck because of the injuries!!!
I believe that everybody would react differently to an injury; somebody would be wiser and would take a period completely off, someone other, like me for example, wouldn’t stand it and it would keep on doing something…with the hope that this would help to heal. That’s the case…and probably it doesn’t help… but I can’t stand to rest: I need to move.
Luckily my shoulder healed completely within 3 weeks, but my finger is still hurting a lot. I started to climb on 6a’s to get some more blood coming through, and it seemed to help. After 2 and half weeks of easy climbing, I decided to slowly start to do something harder, as it seemed to get better. Now I’m always climbing one day and resting one day, but always on not so hard stuffs, and basically without crimping; somedays it seems to help, somedays it doesn’t.
I’m trying not to think about it, and to focus on endurance sport and mountains, but sincerely I’m a little bit lost and afraid about the situation. I would like to start to train as usual in January, but I can’t like that. Let see what it will happen… hopefully everything will get better soon! :(
Luckily it started to snow! :)
In the meanwhile I had the opportunity to make a little premiere of my new film project #evolve in Trento, during a scholarship giving. It was super interesting, and I’m honored, to having showed it to such a young audience, sharing with them what I’ve learned and experienced in my climbing career, and how this has influenced my life. I really enjoyed it, and I’m happy to got a lot of positive feedbacks. I’m looking forward to receive the final version of the film in the next week.
Stay tuned for the teaser!