Skip to content

Archive for

Climbing again!

Finally, after almost three months of struggling with a finger injury, I can climb again without pain! :)

I restarted at the end of January, and after just a couple of easy sessions, I could crimp again like before. The good thing of an inflammation is that, once it’s gone, and as nothing was broken, you don’t have to worry too much about the rehabilitation; I tested for a couple of days the finger, and than I started to pull on it as before…what a nice feeling! ;)

We first spent two weekends in Arco together with a big crew, and we climbed a little bit in the gym at home when the weather wasn’t so good. We planned a 2-weeks-trip to Spain at the end of February, so we tried to finish all the small jobs we had to do before, while getting pretty excited for the departure. Babsi had to make some filming on “Prinzip Hoffnung” and in the meanwhile I started to work an the line on the left of it, “Psychogram”. It was supposed to be one of my main goals for the winter, but due to the finger injury, I got a little bit short in time…as the wall is facing south and it could get quickly too hot for  little crimps. Anyways, I got some days to try it. I managed to climb it toprope, placing the gear, on my second/third day on it…so the deal was to find the time and the right conditions to give it a go from the ground. Luckily I managed to give it some attempts in between the film work, but I got shut down 3 times grabbing the crimp of what is for me the end of the crux. The pressure of the near departure didn’t help, but the route is still there…I just have to wait the next season, as it is way to warm at the moment. Anyways, I was really happy to be able to try it, and to feel comfortable while climbing on such small gear.

Just 2 days later, after a long travel, and a stop in Milano for one “La Sportiva” event, we arrived in Siurana. Even if I spent a lot of time in those places in the past, I hadn’t been there for a while, so I was pretty excited to try some old/new routes. Also Babsi had visited Siurana a couple of times in the past, but she had always found poor and rainy conditions…so everything was kind of new for her. We settled in a small apartment in Cornudella and we got immediately into the spanish mode: wake up late, eat, climb, eat, sleep…and repeat! ;) Bernardo Gimenez had to make a short video about Babsi, so he also joined us for the 2 weeks. It was really nice and funny to meet again after a long time, and we enjoyed a lot to share most of the time with him. Even if it wasn’t too crowded, we met a lot of old friends, which is definitely another good reason to go climbing there in that period! We spent the first days climbing in the classic Can Piqui Pugui sector. Babsi made a quick work of “Renegoide” and started to try “Chikane”, while I got stucked on “A muerte”. That route drove me crazy! After the first tries, I felt pretty good on it, and I fell a couple of times reaching the final jug; I was sure that it would go fast, but I started to struggle a lot with a dynamic move to a pocket, which I was no more able to centre. I always tapped on the sides! Who has tried the route knows what I’m talking about ;)

We changed for a couple of days, as the skin and the head had to recover. We spent the first day in Montsant: the paradise for endurance routes… Babsi got on the coolest line (for me) of the wall, “L-mens”, while I got a long, but successful on-sight battle on “Falconetti”. The next day we visited a not very known sector, El Grau dels Masets, which definitely deserves more attention for some long and technical routes! I wanted to try a short and bouldery route called “Chocolate Caliente”, as I heard a it was supposed to be really good. It doesn’t look very nice from the ground, but the moves are really cool! Once again, I got super close on the second attempt, but, when I tried it again, I tore something in my hand and I had to give up… It’s never good, when both you feet slip off the wall while you are holding just one mono :(

After a rest day, we drove to Margalef…the paradise of pockets… where we actually climbed a super nice and crazy route on tufas. I’ve never climbed something like that before! Basically you stam and lay-back your way up between two parallel and slopy tufas: super funny!…and very painful for the hips ;)

After that, we moved to some more classic Margalef-routes, but I immediately realized that my finger/hand was hurting too much. This time I decided to take a rest before the injury would have become too serious, and I decided to stop my holiday 5 days before the real departure. It was pretty frustrating and hard to be there without climbing, but I believe it was the right choice.

I spent the last days hanging out with Babsi and different friends at the crag, where she made a quick work, or finished, some other classics of the area… just in time before she run out of skin:)

After Spain, we flew straight to Hannover to attend the Hard Moves Kick-Off Event, which was quite a big change for us: from the sunny and quiet Catalunya, to a crowded and loud gym!… but, even if the situation was different, the spirit of the climber is always the same! It was actually pretty funny to hang out with a lot of people and see the BD team again. The week of rest was over, so I tried to climb, actually a lot, on the funny boulder problems… and I’m really glad that I took some days of rest before, as the hand felt way better!

After a funny party, we flew back home. We climbed a couple of days near Bludenz, and after a meeting with the The North Face team for our next  expedition/trip, I left for a quick 3-days trip to Ticino with Kilian.I hadn’t seriously been bouldering on rock since the last Melloblocco, and I was pretty motivated to discover some spots in Ticino that I’d never seen before. I’m really happy that I was able to do a quick work of two lines, of which the pictures have always intrigued me: “Freak brothers” and “Boogalagga”…two pure lines! We spent the last 2 days trying an isolated gem, “Ninja skills”, first climbed by Nalle and situated on the other side of the Valley. 4 days of climbing were too much for me, but I kept on as the moves were really nice…I’ve never seen such a coordination dynamic move on rock before. On the last day, after he finally found out the right beta, Kili made some really good attempts..but unluckily we run out of time and energy! I haven’t been very motivated for bouldering in the last period, but this one is pretty special…it would be actually nice to give it some more tries :)

The weather in Ticino is supposed to be not really good at the end of the week, so we will climb around home and try to finish some “unfinished business” in Loreuns! ;) Keep the finger crossed..