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A lot of route setting and “Helmutant”


The last month has been a really busy and intense period. This time I tried to concentrate a lot of route setting work over a 4-weeks period, in order to get more free time in the next months, before to start for the expedition. I don’t know if it was a cleaver idea, as at the end my body felt completely destroyed… but now I’m happy that the work is over, and I can focus on my goals.

Anyways I can’t complain about my choice, as I don’t see route setting only as a work, but also as something that I really enjoy to do. This time I set a lot for the national teams (both youth and senior) and this was really challenging and motivating at the same time. I enjoyed to work for these climbers, trying to prepare something useful for their training, and with the idea of giving back what I got from the coaches in the past. I especially liked a lot to collaborate with the youth national team, as it made me remember when I was younger and I used to compete in their categories…it seems like it was ages ago!… I can’t hid that I felt a little bit old ;)

I had a really busy agenda, and I got always only a couple of rest days between the different events; for this reason I didn’t plan anything special for those days and I just used them to climb and hang out with some old friends in some local crags. Obviously Marco was the first person with whom I wanted to go climbing, and after a short discussion, we ended up in Saustal. I had been there for the last time 3/4 years ago, when I was trying an old project, that was later free climbed by Michael Piccolruaz. I remembered that I struggled a lot on that line, so I was curious to see if something had changed :) I went without expectations, as I was pretty tired from the route setting, but, after checking out the moves again, I unexpectedly could to the route with just one rest. I immediately got motivated again for it!

I came back the day after, but I couldn’t do better, and the heat didn’t help me. Anyways I felt pretty confident about a send. After another stressful route setting event, I came back with Angi early in the morning, to take advantage of the cooler conditions. Despite I felt dead tired, unexpectedly I could do the crux pretty easily. So, just before the sun hit the wall, I made an attempt and everything worked out perfectly :) It was such a good feeling to clip the belay of that route, not only for the difficulty and beauty, but also because it felt like the closing of an open circle, and it was great to see the progression over the last years. Sometime things happen, when we don’t expect them! A special thank go to Marco, who always find the right way to motivate me… in climbing and in life.

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