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Christmas update

Here we are… just a short update about the last few days….

After the send of Jungle Speed, I spent some days with Klaus Dell’Orto and Pietro Bagnara filming here in Siurana: they had a really nice idea and you we will see a short presentation of the final result in a few days… stay tuned for the surprice! :)


After that I climbed mostly in “El Pati”, trying a bit Estado Critico and enjoying easier routes. I don’t know why, but I feel a bit tired and unmotivated now, and I understood that I need to take some time to relax my mind and my body, before to be able to climb hard again… so I switched to the “chill mode”…

The highpoint of the last days was the 25th, when, after a good Christmas dinner, we decided to spent a relaxing afternoon in Montsant to change style and to escape from the crowd of Siurana; I don’t like that much the climbing there, but I managed to on sight  anyways a classic 8b+, L-mens, offering me  a nice Christmas gift!

We will spend 10 more days here in Catalunya and then we will drive back to Innsbruck; I will try to store as much warm as possible, to be ready for the ice season ;)

Intervista su Montagna.TV

Schermata 12-2456286 alle 22.57.00

News from Catalunya

I’ve been in Spain for 2 weeks now and a lot of things happened. After a quick visit to Riglos, we moved to Siurana, where we planned to spend the next 3 weeks.

As I wrote in the last post, after some days spent climbing on easy stuffs, I took a look on “Jungle Speed”, a short 9a in “La Capella” sector and I immediately felt really good on it. After some days, I came back alone to try the second crux and after some tries I figured out the best way for me to catch the big two finger pockets, from which starts the easier part of the route.

Melissa arrived and gave me a belay, but I felt 2 times touching the hold, which marks the end of the hard boulder  problem. The dark came, but I was confident and super motivated to come back on the next day.

The day after, I warmed up in El Pati with Markus (Jung), who was trying “Estado Critico”, and the evening we moved to La Capella; after a first go to figure out better the upper part, I gave a try and I finally grabbed the two finger pocket. Helped by the cheering of Dani and Markus, I climbed my way to the anchor.

I’m really happy about this one: it has been a great start of the trip and a big source of motivation for trying hard stuffs!

In the last days I had a look on “Estado Critico”, now I just have to get back some endurance before to give some serious tries.

Stay tuned

A big thank to Melissa (Le Nevé)  for the nice pictures!


After our trip in Red, I felt exhausted from the travel and the climbing, so I decided to spend about 10days in Bolzano to see my family and to fix some stuffs before to leave again. I love traveling, but there’s not better place than your home, when you need to recover and to find new energies!

… but it doesn’t mean that I spent the whole time laying in my bed… ;)

During my stay in Bolzano, I went a bunch of time in Saustal, where I really wanted to have a look on the project, but unluckily the upper crack was dropping out a lot of water making it impracticable; in any case I take advantage of the situation spending good times with my friends and gaining some endurance on the long and crimpy routes.

I spent the rest of the days training in the gym, running, working and improoving my drytooling skills!

At the beginning of December, I drove to Montpellier to join Melissa, who just came back from the Petzl Roc Trip in Argentina; after 2 relaxing days and motivated from a picture of  “La fiesta de los biceps”, we headed to Riglos (Spain) to have a look on the climbing there. Clément, a friend of us and an excellent video maker, also decided to join us on the weekend, to make a short footage on this beautiful place.

Saturday morning we started all together on the super classic of the area, “La fiesta de los biceps”, and after some  hours of funny climbing, fixing static ropes, filming and jumaring, we finally deserved our appetizer on the top of the “La visera” pillar! This route is for sure one of the craziest and funniest multipitch I’ve ever made and it was a very nice experience to do it all together: we had a lot of fun.

Stay tuned for the video, it should be on line in a few months.

The day after we drove to Siurana, where we meet Alizée and where will spend the next month! Even if I’ve been here every winter since 7 years, I always enjoy a  lot this place and its climbing: it’s a special place with a lot of climbing history.

We managed to find a nice flat in Cornudella, where we can feel like at home and we can recover near a fireplace after the cold climbing days. As we are traveling the most part of our time, it’s really important for me to have found a nice place like that, where we can have our daily routine and live like at home: it will help us a lot.

We spent the first days climbing on “easy” stuff to get used again to the style and we are now ready to attack the harder routes!

Two days ago I had a look on “Jungle Speed” a short 9a in “La Capella” sector: it doesn’t seem very nice from the ground, but it has some really interesting moves and a high quality rock. I’m quite confident about this one as I had very good feelings already on the first goes… I can’t wait to get back on it.

I will try to post an update at least every week, stay tuned.

Have fun